Review: Location, motif set Stearman Field Bar & Grill in Benton apart

My dear recently departed father loved to preach to us that eating out should always be an adventure. Granted, one time his idea of a dining adventure came in the form of eating chicken out of a cardboard bucket at a tiny country cemetery along the side of the road, but you get the idea.

And for those of you who agree with my father’s philosophy, it’s probably safe to say the first question that pops into your head when looking for your next culinary conquest isn’t “Where is the nearest small airport?” However, that’s exactly where my husband and I discovered one of the most charming and unique dining places we’ve encountered in a long time.

The Stearman Field Bar & Grill is nestled in a hangar at the Benton Airpark in Benton. Don’t be concerned with the drive. It took us less than 15 minutes to get there from our east Wichita home. The owners, Yvette and Monte Ysidro, purchased the place from their friends, Dwayne and Julie Clemens, in July 2013. They credit the Clemenses for teaching them everything they know about customer service, and the Ysidros have done a great job maintaining Stearman’s original ambience.

What sets this bar and grill apart from the others, besides its unusual location, is its all-things-airplane-related motif. It’s a unifying and delightful theme that is evident throughout, from the two giant 24-foot propeller-like ceiling fans to the aircraft-engine table base. The sizable airplane models hanging from the ceiling are either donated or on loan from local enthusiasts. And there is a really cool circular dining bar in the larger eating area that has a fire pit in the center. Cozy and perfect for this time of year.

The menu offers bar food favorites, with no big surprises. But remember, this is an eating adventure, so half the fun is enjoying and appreciating the unique touches that abound in this out-of-the-way gem. For example, the fries come in small metal fry baskets, and the burgers and sandwiches are served on small rimmed cookie trays. Hamburgers, patty melts, Reubens, grilled chicken sandwiches, and an assortment of pizzas compose most of the menu, along with requisite appetizers like quesadillas, fried pickles and chicken wings. Sandwiches range in price from $6.99 for the chicken wrap to $8.99 for the Philly cheesesteak, and appetizers are $3.99 to $8.99.

My husband had the Stearman Burger ($7.99), which was a generous half-pound, hand-formed burger topped with jalapenos, onions and pepper jack cheese. The meat was juicy, tender and perfectly seasoned. We were a bit disappointed that the jalapenos were not grilled as billed on the menu, but they still added a nice kick to the burger.

Upon the recommendation of our very personable waitress, Connie, I ordered the Chicken Fried Angus Steak dinner ($11.99). This chicken-fried steak was so good, I didn’t even feel guilty. It is a gargantuan piece of tenderized steak covered with a crispy, surprisingly non-greasy homemade hand breading. And, of course, it comes with mashed potatoes that have just enough lumps to let you know they are made from real potatoes. Covering it all was perfectly pepper-flecked, creamy, hip-expanding gravy. Oh … and there were carrots on the plate, too.

The Ysidros are proud of their U.S. Prime steaks, which are served after 11 a.m. Word of mouth has it that their diner-type breakfasts are worth the drive. And if you’re a Bloody Mary fan, theirs is almost a meal in itself, with two strips of bacon, olives and a lime. Stearman’s has a full bar and a nice assortment of beers.

In the summertime, there is a huge outdoor patio where diners can get a firsthand look at arriving and departing airplanes. This “dining adventure” touch is still enjoyable in cold weather, too, as the airfield is visible from all parts of the restaurant. On some weekends, you can enjoy live entertainment while you dine.

So, how can you tell if a place has good food and is going to be a true dining adventure? Is it the hour or longer wait the Stearman has most weekends during the summer months? Or could it be that some locals eat there twice a day? Yes, you read that correctly, twice a day. Personally, any place that convinces me to chow down on chicken-fried steak for the second time in three months gets my vote.

This story was originally published November 24, 2014 at 2:08 PM with the headline "Review: Location, motif set Stearman Field Bar & Grill in Benton apart."