Chef Gordon Ramsay’s touch at Fetch Bistro means many dishes are now (bow) wow worthy
Wow.
Or shall I say, bow wow?
The changes that have occurred at Fetch Bistro since the renowned Michelin star-winning chef/restaurateur/television personality Gordon Ramsay descended upon the struggling restaurant seven months ago are truly astounding. A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for the restaurant to get a makeover as part of the show “24 Hours to Hell and Back” came just in the nick of time for owners Greg and Pam Buss, as the concept of eating with animals had been a somewhat difficult one to grasp for many Wichitans.
But if you don’t mind sharing a meal with a few furry friends, this is definitely the spot to go, especially since the acerbic but incredibly talented Ramsay added more than just his magic touch. He completely transformed the restaurant - inside and out - turning what was once merely a novel idea into a really good place to eat, with or without your dog. There is a noticeable emphasis on fresh ingredients, with all menu choices made fresh daily.
Perhaps the biggest change regarding the menu is a major reduction of items, from 65 items to around 20. Ramsay is a big proponent of less is better, thus giving chefs ample opportunity to provide quality versus quantity. This was a notion fully embraced by head chef Susan Smith. Ramsay immediately recognized her talents and banished the owners from the kitchen, allowing Smith to spread her culinary wings. Note: Since Ramsay’s visit, the owners have reinstated all-day breakfast choices. But regulars will notice that, in adhering to the TV guru’s mantra, there are fewer options, with the goal being consistently delicious food.
On a recent visit, we sampled all of the Ramsay-inspired entrees, beginning with a cobb salad topped with Ramsay’s made-from-scratch classic Green Goddess dressing. This isn’t the bottled version you may remember but instead a creamy medley of fresh tarragon, dill and basil. The salad is a meal in itself, but we moved on to the more substantial entree selections.
The chicken and biscuits dish consists of a generous and perfectly breaded crunchy chicken cutlet topped with a rich and milky gravy and served with a British-style black pepper “biscuit.” Biscuit is in quotation marks because it is definitely not the light fluffy kind your Aunt Minnie makes. These resemble a heavier, denser English scone, but when served alongside seared fresh green beans with garlic and mashed potatoes, they’re a perfect complement to the rest of the meal.
The Fetch faithful will remember the original meatloaf dinner, but the new and improved herb-infused version with mushroom gravy will make them soon forget the former. Served with another Ramsay favorite, broccolini dotted with red peppers, this drew rave reviews from our table.
The grilled fish tacos are now filled with fresh mahi mahi, a zesty chipotle lime aioli (again, made fresh) and a vinegary cabbage slaw. We agreed the vinegar flavor slightly overpowered the fish, but the vinegar and fish combination plays prominently in Ramsay’s British background. Don’t pass up the amazing seasoned fried flour chips beneath the tacos. They are a tangy, crispy surprise.
The most subtle but perhaps most important lesson Ramsay taught the kitchen staff at Fetch was how to make a perfectly cooked hamburger his way. If our burger was any indication, Chef Smith has it down to a science. The secret is to not overwork the meat, and whatever you do, DON’T overcook it. The juices should run clear. The thick patty was served on a glistening brioche bun, smeared with a savory-sweet caramelized onion jam and topped with sharp cheddar and bacon.
I still don’t know how our Pomeranian, who sat patiently throughout the meal in one of the table-height carts offered for petite pups, resisted it. We sure couldn’t. Fetch also offer daily specials like grilled salmon and southern fried catfish. Look for more Ramsay-inspired dishes, soups, and stews to come in the fall.
Desserts have definitely been upgraded. A must-try is the double chocolate brownie with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. Notice the hint of coffee in the brownie. Another home-run sweet course indulgence is the raisin bread pudding with homemade bourbon sauce. One of the best in town.
Obviously with a name like Fetch, the feeding and comfort of man and woman’s best friends is important. But even Fido’s menu was pared down by Ramsay. It now includes the Pawsitively Pumpkin and Peanut Butter Cupcake with yogurt peanut butter frosting. And listen up, Tippy, they’re topped with real bacon bits. The Bone Appetit is a humanly appetizing mix of steak, brown rice, green beans, and carrots. We had to resist trying it, even though it is made with pure “people” food.
For the faint of heart who can’t imagine partaking with pooches, not to worry. All dogs must be on leashes and easily controlled by their masters. Even though menu items for dogs are made, as mentioned, with grocery and garden ingredients, all dog-related dishes are prepared in a separate area, and doggie dishes are washed in designated dishwashers, also isolated from the main kitchen. There are now five separate hand-washing stations for servers who are required to wash their hands thoroughly after petting an animal. As Buss says, “We have to be twice as clean as a regular restaurant.”
Dogs aren’t the only animals spotted at Fetch. A diapered, and well-trained goat recently dined there, along with a pot-bellied pig named Frank, who was apparently oblivious to the fact that a ham and cheese omelet was being served less than five feet away.
In a near-miraculous 24 hours, Ramsay’s crew totally transformed the interior. Gone are the booths and closed-in spaces, now replaced with neat tables and chairs, allowing for even the largest of dogs to fit comfortably. Dozens of wooden crates are suspended from the industrial ceiling. A large portion of one wall is filled with pictures of dogs and their owners, taken in the photo booth in the back.
The outdoor area now has a totally enclosed play yard for the dogs so that owners can let them roam safely while they dine or have a drink on the mist-cooled patio surrounding it.
Fetch offers a full bar, and “Yappy Hour” is from 4 to 6 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Saturday night is date night, with a choice of two entrees and an appetizer for $25. Entree prices range from $7 to $13.
Fetch’s new slogan is “A Place for People And Pets,” but perhaps it should be amended to include “and Great Food” thanks to a visit from Mr. Ramsay, and a lot of hard work by the staff there.
FETCH BISTRO
WHERE: 7718 E. 37th St. North, 316-927-2227
TYPE OF FOOD: American, comfort food
HOURS: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays, 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday
WEBSITE: https://www.fetchbistro.com/
This story was originally published July 19, 2018 at 10:09 AM.