Larkspur starts 20th year

In 2011, Wichita diners know Larkspur for its wisteria-draped patio, reliable menu of upscale dishes, classy dining room, consistent service and always-present, always-amiable owner Ty Issa.

But only those who have dined out in Wichita since the early 1990s understand the larger significance behind the Old Town restaurant's 20th anniversary, which it will celebrate starting this year.

Larkspur, which opened in April 1992, was one of the first businesses to pop up in Old Town — before Old Town was Old Town.

In the 20 years since, the restaurant has had three owners, several menu incarnations and one nasty fire.

Larkspur helped spur the growth of the Old Town scene and has served as training grounds for a long list of Wichita chefs and been home to countless business lunches, wedding proposals and special-occasion meals and meetings.

"This place is 20 years old," Issa said, sitting at one of the restaurant's original tall bar chairs on a recent morning. "And it still feels like it's ahead of its time."

Old Town developer David Burk and local restaurateur Rich Vliet built Larkspur in 1992 in an old dry cleaner's building at 904 E. Douglas.

Heroes had just opened when Larkspur came to be, and River City Brewery would follow soon after. Other than that, Old Town was still a collection of abandoned warehouses and crummy streets.

Larkspur, with its "exposed brick, pale blond wood, soft peach and celadon green" color palette, as described by Eagle food critic Diane Lewis just after it opened, introduced Wichita to California-style, "New American" fine dining, and Wichita liked it.

Popular local chef Tanya Tandoc was one of the early chefs at Larkspur and is credited with creating three of its signature dishes — the Metro salad, pistachio chicken and salmon nicoise salad.

She remembers the restaurant being overrun when it first opened.

"It was packed. It was ridiculous," she said. "Every day, you would just make as much food as you could, and then you just do it all again, and every day, you couldn't believe how busy you were."

The original owners sold the restaurant to local businesswoman Pam Bjork in 1993, and when she decided to move to Colorado in 2000, she sold it to Issa, who at the time owned River City Brewery and a stake in the Italian Garden chain.

Issa closed the restaurant for 11 days while he updated the dining room, remodeled the kitchen and revamped the menu.

He's been running the restaurant ever since, expanding its catering services and securing a deal to serve as the primary food provider for the Old Town Marriott's convention center. (He also closed the restaurant for another 11-day span last year after a fire left the restaurant with $500,000 in damage.)

Issa is praised by the original owners for his good business sense and constant presence.

"I couldn't be more proud of Ty," said Vliet, who says he still frequently dines on his favorite salmon nicoise salad at Larkspur. "He understands the restaurant business and he understands the worth of working hard and being involved in your restaurant. He's always there."

If you go

CELEBRATING LARKSPUR

What: Larkspur marks the beginning of its 20th year of business with a customer appreciation party, featuring free appetizers, drinks and live music.

Where: 904 E. Douglas, on the patio and in the banquet room

When: 4 to 7 p.m. April 19

For more information, call 316-262-5275 or visit www.larkspuronline.com.

This story was originally published April 8, 2011 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Larkspur starts 20th year."