Food & Drink

Don’t you dare use store-bought pie crust at Thanksgiving. Learn to make your own

Courtesy photo

Here we are, sliding toward Thanksgiving — a holiday centered around eating and being grateful and joining with family around the table. It’s a beautiful holiday, really, and it’s never really about the main entrée, turkey. Most people really look forward to the sides and the desserts.

This week’s recipe is for my pie crust. I’ve made it my personal purpose to spread the love of pie baking for years. I’ve taught dozens of pie classes to ladies (and gentlemen, too) right before Thanksgiving so everyone can get a head start on their holiday preparations. Obviously, because of COVID, there was no pie class last year. This year, I’m not sure it’s safe to gather people in close proximity, so I’ll use this column to teach you how to make pies.

First off, you must make your own crust. I don’t want to hear about that frozen pie crust at the store. It’s blasphemy. Making pie crust is very simple, and this recipe yields the most flaky, flavorful crust you’ll eat.

You’ll also get the Dulce de Leche Apple pie recipe this week. But first, let’s focus on how to make the perfect crust. The key is using half butter and half lard. The butter is for the delicious flavor, and the lard is for that irresistible flakiness.

So many people look at me cross-eyed when I tell them to buy lard. They have no idea where to find it at the store. If you shop at Dillons, it’s on the baking aisle near the Crisco. Skip on by that Crisco and purchase the Morrell Snow Cap Lard. Note that the lard has to be refrigerated overnight because lard is a very soft fat. If you forget this important step, you will have a gooey mess on your hands or in your food processor.

After that hunk of one-pound lard is refrigerated, you must cut it into ½ cup sticks. Just think of it as a hunk of butter you are cutting into even sticks. Once the lard is ready and your ingredients and equipment are mis en place, it’s time for the fun to begin.

If you’re feeling extra decadent, use Kerry Gold Butter. The fat content is higher than regular butter, and it shows in the flavor. Place the flour, sugar, salt, butter and lard into the food processor. Let it run until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Stick your finger on the underside of the blade and hold it tightly so it doesn’t fall out. Dump the dough mixture into a medium-sized bowl, and have your ice cold water ready in a measuring cup nearby.

Mix ice water into your pie crust dough until it is the correct texture.
Mix ice water into your pie crust dough until it is the correct texture. Kendra Cremin Courtesy

Mix the first 3 or 4 tablespoons of ice water into the dough mixture and work it through with your hands. The dough consistency is the only learned part of this – and you want the dough to be soft and to easily stick together but not stick to your hands. Add an additional tablespoon if needed. After 5 tablespoons, only add ½ a tablespoon of water at a time. Oftentimes, flour measuring is off if you need more than 5 tablespoons, but it can all be worked out through a bit of water adding and mixing.

After your dough is ready, divide it in half and make two disks with the dough. If you can, let the dough rest in the fridge for an hour. It helps with the dough texture. If you don’t have time, it will be alright. If you do, though, soften dough slightly at room temperature for an hour before rolling out on a lightly-floured surface.

Roll out your homemade pie crust dough on a lightly-floured surface.
Roll out your homemade pie crust dough on a lightly-floured surface. Kendra Cremin Courtesy photo

I recommend a Jumbo Cookie Spatula for lifting the pie dough off of the counter (or whatever surface you used). I haven’t seen them locally for years, but you can find them on Amazon.

Speaking of Amazon, I keep hearing about supply chain issues for holiday shopping this year. If you’re in need of a cookbook, this pie crust recipe is featured in my “Social, Holidays and Happy Hours” cookbook, available for purchase through my website: adrienerathbun.com. I’ll sign and ship it for you, and make your holiday shopping simple.

Happy crust making, and happy shopping, too.

Pie Crust

Yields 1 double crust

2 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 ½ teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch cubes

½ cup lard (chilled overnight), cut into ½ inch cubes

5 tablespoons (or more) ice water

Blend flour, sugar and salt in processor. Add butter and lard; using on/off turns, blend until mixture resembles coarse meal. Transfer mixture to medium bowl.

Add 3-4 tablespoons ice water and mix with fork until dough begins to clump together, adding an additional tablespoon of water if the dough is dry. Gather dough together.

Divide dough by half; flatten each half into disk. Put the disks into a plastic bag and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Soften slightly at room temperature before rolling out.

This story was originally published November 16, 2021 at 12:31 PM.

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