Now is the perfect time to learn the lost art of pie baking

Thanksgiving is less than week away, which begs the question:

What could be sweeter than pie?

Often the most loved part of a holiday, this sweet dessert holds a special place in my heart. Why? Because it feels like a lost art, and I’ve been working to teach that art to eager new pie bakers through once-a-year classes I put on in my home.

For more than a decade, ladies have gathered in my kitchen to learn how to make pies. Eager to learn, they march up my front step with their pie plates, rolling pins and the anticipation that they can really make a pie.

It’s such a joy to see their smiles at the end of class. I’ll often hear, “I can’t wait to show my mother-in-law what I made, and I won’t tell her I came to class.” I laugh and tell them their secret is safe with me.

Like many yearly traditions, this year things are different. Because of COVID-19, no ladies will be gathering to make pies in my kitchen. It makes me sad to break this tradition because every year, pie class felt like the kickoff to the holiday season. But I can still share my love of pie making with you, and you can work from the safety of your own home.

The key to excellent pies is always the crust. I don’t care how good the filling is. If the crust isn’t tender, flaky and buttery, then forget it — the pie isn’t any good. The foundation of a great crust is a great recipe, which I’ve included here. You’ll need both butter and lard: butter for flavor and lard for the flaky texture. Be sure to read all the tips on pie crust so you’re ready.

The most notable tip is that you need to purchase your lard a day in advance and refrigerate it. Lard is a very soft fat, and if you try to make pie crust with room temperature lard, it will fail. I buy Morrell Snow Cap Lard from Dillons, however I’m sure other stores sell it. You’ll find it on the shelf near the Crisco.

At most Thanksgivings, I make several pies, and my list always includes Dulce de Leche Apple, Cream Cheese Pecan and Pumpkin. Pumpkin is tradition for so many, however, I don’t care for it. Anything else pumpkin flavored is delicious, but I don’t like the soft consistency. Another family favorite is the Chocolate Pecan pie from the Wichita Art Museum’s “Artfully Done” cookbook.

Another fun trick when making pie crust is to make extra and freeze the dough disks. You can pull them out next time you want to make a pie or quiche. While your food processor is already dirty, you might as well make extra.

If you’re searching for a new pie flavor this year, check out the just released “The Book on Pie” by Erin Jeanne McDowell, a New York Times contributing baker. I have heard incredible things about this new cookbook. I’ve even ordered a copy – her first printing sold out quickly.

Another fun pie cookbook is “Me, Myself and Pie Amish Recipes.” We all know that the Amish are famous for their pie baking skills, and the creative flavor options will leave you drooling on your new cookbook.

And if you want to try one of my favorites, I’ve included my recipe for Cream Cheese Pecan Pie. My husband affectionately describes this pie as what would happen if cheesecake and pecan pie had a baby.

I hope your Thanksgiving planning is going smoothly. It should be much less stressful this year since the holidays will not bring large crowds. There is sadness in that but maybe also a tinge of relief to not have to deal with the production of it all.

Stay well, and bake yourself a pie. We all deserve some sweetness this holiday.

Here are few tips on making pie crust, since I can’t be there with you making it:

• You’ll purchase the lard in a 1-pound brick on the shelf near the Crisco. I use Morrell Snow Cap Lard.

• Lard must be refrigerated overnight so that it gets harder. Lard is a very soft fat, and if it’s not refrigerated, you’ll have a gooey mess on your hands (or in your food processor).

• Cut the 1-pound brick of lard into even quarters. I slice it so that it mimics butter sticks, but any way would work, I suppose, as long as it’s even.

• Use a scoop to pour your flour into your measuring cups. Flour can get packed in too densely if you just scoop it directly into the cup.

• When mixing the water into the dough, you’ll want all of the ingredients to easily stick together (no flour left behind), and a soft, supple dough that isn’t sticky. Start with 4 tablespoons of water and add another, if needed. After 5 tablespoons, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time, until desired consistency.

• A Jumbo Cookie Spatula is super helpful in lifting the dough off of the counter. Sold on Amazon.com. (I’ve tried to find these locally without any luck.)

Best Ever Pie Crust

Yields 1 double crust

2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch cubes

½ cup chilled lard, cut into ½ inch cubes

5 tablespoons (or more) ice water

Blend flour, sugar and salt in processor. Add butter and lard; using on/off turns, blend until mixture resembles coarse meal. Transfer mixture to medium bowl.

Add 4 tablespoons ice water and mix with your hands until dough begins to clump together, adding an additional tablespoon of water if the dough is dry. Gather dough together.

Divide dough by half; flatten each half into disk. Put the disks into a plastic bag and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Soften slightly at room temperature before rolling out on a floured surface.

Epicurious.com

Cream Cheese Pecan Pie

Single pie crust (additional dough if doing decorative edge as pictured)

2 8-oz. package cream cheese, softened

2 large eggs, beaten

¾ cup sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ teaspoon salt

1 ½ cups chopped pecans

Topping

3 eggs

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup maple syrup

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Roll out single pie crust, place it in the pie plate and pinch the edges.

In a large bowl, cream together the cream cheese, egg, sugar, vanilla and salt. Spread the mixture into the bottom of the pie crust. Sprinkle with pecan pieces.

For the topping, combine all topping ingredients and beat well. Add to the top of the pie. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until topping is golden brown.

This story was originally published November 19, 2020 at 10:33 AM.