Restaurant Reviews

Timbuktu in Andover has one of the best burgers around


Dana Mastio-Fleming
Dana Mastio-Fleming Courtesy photo

No one likes a meal with white napkins, filet mignon and a bottle of Caymus more than I. But let’s be real: Those nights are for the rich and famous, or at least for special occasions. Every once in a while, don’t you just want to put on a pair of faded jeans, throw on a baseball cap, and cast caution to the wind? The Wichita area has several off-the-beaten-path restaurant and bars where, on any given day, you may see Harleys and Hemis, or even a Mercedes or two.

One of my favorite is Timbuktu Bar & Grill in Andover. It’s billed as the “first and oldest bar and grill in Andover” and has been open for more than 30 years. Larry and Michelle Sells have owned it for the past 10.

No visit to Timbuktu is complete without sampling the Timbuktu Original Cheeseburger. A half-pound of fresh, never frozen, hand-formed hamburger from Yoder Meats is the basis for what is considered by most patrons to be as good a burger as you can get in the area. You never have to worry about running out of hamburger at the end of your bun, because this burger is packed with perfectly seasoned meat in every bite.

By the way, don’t ask for lettuce and tomato here because you won’t find it. As Michelle puts it, “We serve them the way historically a hamburger is supposed to be served, with grilled onions and cheese. We don’t want too many additions to interfere with the flavor of the meat.” Pickles, condiments, and raw onions, however, are allowed. Prices range from $6.75 for a hamburger to $9 for the double with cheese. By the way, take a check or cash. Timbuktu doesn’t take credit cards.

My friend had her burger “naked,” which is a rather salacious way of saying “without the bun.” When the meat is so juicy and flavorful that you don’t miss the bun and all the condiments, that’s saying something.

My husband “buk’d” tradition by ordering Buk’s Pork Fritter ($7.50), a huge portion of breaded pork loin served hamburger style. It was tender and flavorful, and unlike a lot of pork fritter sandwiches, it actually tasted like pork.

You can’t go to Timbuktu without sampling one of the condiments that sets it apart from other bar and grills: the famous jalapeno relish. Regular patrons put this spicy delicacy on anything – burgers, fries, jalapeno cheddar bites, chicken strips. Some even pour it in their beer. No kidding.

There are daily food and drink specials and a fun outdoor patio in the back. It’s perfect comfort food to eat while wearing your perfectly comfortable jeans.

Ratings reflect the critic’s judgment of the food, service and atmosphere in relation to the price. If you would like to nominate a restaurant to be reviewed, call 316-268-6327.

Review

Timbuktu Bar & Grill

Where: 1251 N. Andover Road

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sundays through Wednesdays; 11 a.m. to midnight Thursdays through Saturdays

Type of food: Burgers, bar fare

Alcohol: Full bar

Forms of payment: Cash or checks only

Web site: timbuktubarandgrill.com

This story was originally published September 25, 2014 at 8:08 PM with the headline "Timbuktu in Andover has one of the best burgers around."

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