Dining With Denise Neil

This building housed one of Wichita’s longest-running restaurants. Soon, it will be gone

A building that once housed a beloved Wichita restaurant is coming down.

An excavator is parked in front of the building at 4702 W. Kellogg that for more than six decades was home to Town & Country restaurant, and the equipment driver told an Eagle reporter on Monday that demo work would start on Tuesday. The building’s owner pulled a wrecking permit with the city of Wichita on Nov. 19 that will allow for a “complete demo” of the building, according to records.

An excavator sits outside of the former Town & Country building on West Kellogg. Demolition of the building is likely to begin this week.
An excavator sits outside of the former Town & Country building on West Kellogg. Demolition of the building is likely to begin this week. Jaime Green The Wichita Eagle

The restaurant space has been vacant since the summer of 2021 when a group of owners unrelated to the Conover family — whose patriarch Jay Conover founded Town & Country in 1957 — vacated after a brief attempt to revive the restaurant.

Though the building’s owners then relisted it for lease, a new tenant never materialized, and over the past year, it’s become covered with graffiti. People driving West on Kellogg could clearly see the building — a sad remnant of what it once was — from the highway.

The remnants of the once-popular Town & Country restaurant are visible through the window.
The remnants of the once-popular Town & Country restaurant are visible through the window. Jaime Green The Wichita Eagle

Troy Farha, who previously had the listing on the building and whose uncle was one of the property’s owners, said that the pad where the building sits may be put on the market eventually, but the owners haven’t yet decided what they want to do. Farha is also an owner as the trustee of his uncle’s estate.

For decades, diners flocked to Town & Country, which World War II veteran Jay Conover started running in 1957. At the time, the restaurant was connected to a motor lodge and sat on the western edge of the Wichita city limits.

Larry Conover ran Town & Country after his father died in 1980. Larry died in 2000.
Larry Conover ran Town & Country after his father died in 1980. Larry died in 2000. Matt Castro

Jay died of esophageal cancer in 1980, and his son, Larry, took over the restaurant. Larry was well known to customers as the face of Town & Country until he died of throat cancer in 2020, just as the pandemic hit. The restaurant closed during COVID and never reopened — though unrelated owners took it over in October of 2020 and reopened it as Town & Country. That iteration closed after less than a year.

Over the years, Town & Country was known as a family-friendly place to get down-home cooking and reliably good chicken-fried steak and prime rib. It also was known for retaining staff — and customers — for decades.

Town & Country was a popular family restaurant in Wichita for decades.
Town & Country was a popular family restaurant in Wichita for decades. Denise Neil The Wichita Eagle
Contributing: Dion Lefler of The Eagle

This story was originally published November 27, 2023 at 2:16 PM.

Denise Neil
The Wichita Eagle
Denise Neil has covered restaurants and entertainment since 1997. Her Dining with Denise Facebook page is the go-to place for diners to get information about local restaurants. She’s a regular judge at local food competitions and speaks to groups all over Wichita about dining.
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