Dining With Denise Neil

East Coast transplants say they’ll show Wichita how Philly cheesesteaks are really done

They grew up eating cheesesteak sandwiches on the East Coast, so sisters Donial Fayson and Desiree Ellison know a few things that Midwesterners don’t.

For example, they say, the sandwiches must be made on a specific type of hoagie roll that’s hefty enough to soak up the grease without falling apart, and they have to be served with Welch’s grape soda and Herr’s brand potato chips on the side.

Quality meat is a must, as is a certain type of pepper relish made on the East Coast. And which kind of cheese product you top them with — Cheez Whiz, provolone or American — depends on whether you were raised in Pennsylvania or in Delaware.

Now, Fayson and Ellison are ready to school Wichita on the joys of the East Coast-style sub shops they frequented while growing up in Delaware. Today, they’re opening their own place called Wichita Subs & More in the spot at 2251 E. 21st St. North that TOPS Steaks and Hoagies vacated earlier this year.

Wichita Subs & More has taken over the space where TOPS Steaks & Hoagies once operated.
Wichita Subs & More has taken over the space where TOPS Steaks & Hoagies once operated. Denise Neil The Wichita Eagle

Fayson moved to Wichita from Delaware eight years ago after marrying her husband, who is from here. She worked in the corporate travel industry until recently, when she was furloughed because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

She revived an idea she’d had when she first moved here to open a sub shop that would specialize in the food she grew up loving but couldn’t find in Wichita. She’s tried all the cheesesteak shops that have opened here over the years and found their sandwiches to be too greasy, too salty or just not quite right.

Fayson persuaded her sister, who was living in Arizona, to move to Wichita and help her get the shop open. The two are dedicated to getting the cheesesteak sandwiches just right and even commissioned Bagatelle Bakery to make them their custom hoagie rolls that replicate the more substantial Amoroso’s Hoagie Rolls used on the East Coast. The sisters also recently made a road trip back to Delaware to stock up on the pepper relish they need.

They’ll serve their cheesesteak sandwiches either Philly style or Delaware style. In Philadelphia cheesesteak sandwiches are topped with Cheez Whiz, they said. In Delaware, they come with either a slice of Provolone or a slice of American cheese.

“There’s a huge fight between Philadelphia and Delaware about whose are the best,” Fayson said, adding that she always chooses Provolone.

Their menu, which is written in chalk on the restaurant wall, features not only authentic cheesesteak sandwiches but also other subs, including a hamburger sub made with crumbly ground beef. They also serve cold subs, like turkey, Italian, and cheese, as well as take-and-bake pizza and salads. They’ll introduce a special next month called the Jive Turkey, which will essentially be Thanksgiving dinner on a roll — turkey, stuffing, cranberry jelly and all.

Another unique item on their menu is a staple in East Coast sub shops: seafood fries, which are a pile of french fries topped with a garlicky crab-and-shrimp sauce Fayson makes.

“It’s a meal in itself,” she said.

They’ve found somewhere locally to get their Welch’s grape soda, which they say is a must-have for a proper cheesesteak eating experience, but they’re still trying to source the Herr’s brand chips.

There’s no seating in their restaurant, so they’ll sell their food to-go, for curbside pickup or through the various third party delivery services. People who want to pick up food can order ahead by calling 316-295-3230.

The shop’s hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. It’s closed on Sundays.

For more information, visit Wichita Subs & More on Facebook.

Wichita Subs & More menu

The Wichita Subs & More menu
The Wichita Subs & More menu Courtesy

This story was originally published October 27, 2020 at 11:16 AM.

Denise Neil
The Wichita Eagle
Denise Neil has covered restaurants and entertainment since 1997. Her Dining with Denise Facebook page is the go-to place for diners to get information about local restaurants. She’s a regular judge at local food competitions and speaks to groups all over Wichita about dining.
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