Dining With Denise Neil

Small Delano restaurant is moving, will get 10 times the seating

If you’ve ever been able to snag a seat at one of the four tables in the tiny Gabby’s Peruvian Restaurant at 1713 W. Douglas, you’ve likely had the same thought its owner has had since it opened in early 2016.

Why isn’t this place bigger?

Soon, it will be. Owner Gaby Kruskamp is moving the restaurant to a much larger space that will increase the number of tables by 10. Sometime next month, she’ll move the space at 1002 S. Seneca that previously held Breakfast Club and (briefly) La Tia Cafe.

A friend of her son’s bought the building, Kruskamp said, and offered to remodel it for her. If you drive by, you’ll notice the space looks better than it has in years, and the remodel isn’t yet finished.

When she gets moved, Kruskamp will have two separate seating areas and will be able to increase the number of tables from four to 40. She’s considering making one side of the restaurant tiny and homey like her current place, which many customers say they’ve grown attached to. She’ll make the other side more light and airy.

Kruskamp said that it’s been apparent to her for a while that a move was necessary. Her customer base has grown as more people have learned about her authentic Peruvian dishes like arroz con pollo, chicharron, fried tilapia and flan, and it becomes more difficult every day to find a seat. (Here’s the review I wrote of Gabby’s in 2016.) (And here’s a link to the full menu.)

“Sometimes, people were waiting outside or in their cars,” she said. “Sometimes people would leave because they couldn’t get in.”

Kruskamp said she’ll be able to add a few more dishes to the menu once she moves, and she also wants to get her liquor license and begin serving beer. She hopes to make a seamless move sometime in the middle of February and close only on the days she usually closes – Monday and Tuesday.

In the meantime, the original Delano restaurant will remain open.

If you go before or after the move, here’s what I recommend:

Lomo saltado: Beef stir-fried with onions, garlic, tomatoes cilantro, white wine and soy sauce

Ceviche de pescado: Tilapia cured in lime juice, garlic, red onions, rocoto and cilantro served with corn and sweet potato

Papitas rellenas: Potato croquettes stuffed with meat, eggs raisins and olives

Yuquita: Fried yucca with huancaina sauce and green salsa

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