Road trip to an outdoor paradise in the Nebraska sand hills

As we launched our raft onto the Niobrara River, we noticed a canoe wickedly wrapped around a nearby bridge piling. It was a fair reminder of the strength of the water we were here to play in.

Fortunately, we were able to sit back and enjoy a leisurely float as our guide navigated the river, which has appeared on National Geographic’s list of top 100 adventures and Backpacker magazine’s top 10 canoeing rivers. We traveled through the Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge, considered one of the most scenic sections of the river, and took time to make a short hike to a 70-foot waterfall at Smith Falls State Park.

Each June through August, the Niobrara River attracts an estimated 50,000 visitors to Valentine, in north-central Nebraska. While in the town of fewer than 3,000 residents, they hike to some of the nearly 200 waterfalls throughout the river’s valley; fish, hunt and bird-watch on Cherry County’s 200,000 acres of public accessible land; visit the shops and restaurants on Main Street; golf at a semi-private destination golf club and take advantage of remote night skies to stargaze.

“We’re not 50 miles from St. Louis or 50 miles outside Los Angeles, we’re 300 miles from any sort of population center,” said Doug Graham of Graham Outfitters, as he guided our raft down the Niobrara. “We’re right in the middle of the sand hills. That’s why people want to come here. There’s nothing else like it.”

The final stretch of the 480-mile road trip from Wichita to Valentine takes drivers through those beautiful rolling sand hills formed during the past 10,000 years as winds shaped stream-deposited sands into dunes and valleys. The Niobrara River flows 535 miles from eastern Wyoming to join the Missouri River in northeastern Nebraska. The section from Valentine to 76 miles east of here is part of the National Park Service, designated a National Scenic River for its cliffs, canyons, waterfalls and biological significance.

The Niobrara is a constant-flow river with speeds of 4 to 7 mph, making it navigable for people of all ages and abilities. There are about a dozen outfitters based in the Valentine area renting canoes, kayaks and tubes or offering guided raft trips for durations ranging from one hour to multiple days. They provide tips on float times and scenic stops and let you know that you can’t possess alcohol on the portion of the river that goes through the refuge.

Graham Outfitters started in 1978 and is one of the longest-operating outfitters with the original owners, Graham and his wife. They cater to tourists wanting to tube for an afternoon with friends, as well as groups looking for full-service, two-day floats. Rentals run from $30 per day up to $180 per adult/$90 per child for the full-service trip, and they offer car shuttles as well.

The Niobrara River is a gateway to exploring the outdoors in and around Valentine.

Waterfalls

Some of Nebraska’s best waterfalls are along the Niobrara River, including at Smith Falls State Park. You can access the state’s tallest waterfall, Smith Falls, by floating or driving to the state park. A pedestrian bridge crosses the Niobrara River and a short walkway leads to the 70-foot falls. The largest waterfall in the state by volume is Snake River Falls, which rushes over a 54-foot-wide ledge and can be seen from the top of the canyon or close-up with a short but steep hike.

Wildlife refuges

While the one remaining building of the original frontier military fort is not open to the public, there is plenty to see at Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge, east of Valentine. A history display at the visitor center contains fossils of long-jawed mastodons, giant bison, and three-toed horses. From there, a 3.5-mile self-guided driving tour has stops to read about the wildlife, land and history of the refuge and you’ll often see prairie dogs, bison and elk. At Fort Falls, a five-minute walk on a gentle trail takes you to the top of the falls. From there, 60 steps lead to the base of the falls. The entire hiking trail loops for just under a mile. For solitude, take a canoe or hike into the Wilderness Area in the north part of the refuge. No motorized vehicles or bicycles are allowed, making it great for birding, hiking and wildlife viewing. Its 4,635 acres contain five constant flow creeks that all enter the Niobrara River, and you’ll enjoy excellent river views.

Twenty-five miles south of Valentine, the Valentine National Wildlife Refuge contains nearly 72,000 acres of rolling sand hills and spring-fed lakes, including nine that are open to fishing year-round. Pick up brochures at the Marsh Lake Overlook and Nature Trail right off Highway 83 for information on hunting, fishing and a nine-mile self-guided wildlife driving tour. The wildlife brochure lists 289 species of birds, 41 species of mammals, 16 species of reptiles and six species of amphibians that have been recorded on the refuge. May, September and October offer good bird watching opportunities during annual migrations.

Reservoir and national forest

Samuel R. McKelvie National Forest isn’t your typical forest. Only about 2,300 of its 116,000 acres are actually wooded with hand-planted timber, the rest is rolling sand hills. The area is open to hunting in season, and popular for hiking, bicycling, fishing and bird watching.

The forest borders Merritt Reservoir, which is about 28 miles southwest of Valentine and one of the top walleye fisheries in the state according to Nebraska Game and Parks. Sandy beaches, 44 miles of tree-lined shore and 2,900 acres of water make it popular for boating and swimming, too. Merritt is also the site of the Nebraska Star Party, a week-long gathering that attracts amateur astronomers and families taking advantage of unpolluted night skies. The 23rd annual event is July 31-Aug. 5 and includes activities for all ages and all interest levels.

Golfing

Since opening in 2010 on land along the rim of the Snake River canyon, the Prairie Club has become a bucket-list destination for golfers who often fly into the nearby general aviation airport. Designers built 46 holes in less than six months by moving very little dirt to create undisturbed holes. The Dunes Course, designed by Tom Lehman and Chris Brands, is a links-style course with wide fairways, sand traps and natural grasses of the hills for the rough. The Pines Course by Graham Marsh weaves in and out of the Snake River valley with forest and canyon views. There’s also a 10-hole Horse Course played similarly to the basketball game “Horse.” Golf Digest has named all three courses to its list of the “Most Fun Courses You Can Play.”

Because it’s 17 miles south of Valentine, the Prairie Club also offers some of the area’s best lodging and dining on-site. They have lodge rooms or multiple-bedroom cabins for golfers and offer a limited number to non-golfing guests. Other lodging options in and around Valentine include camping, cabin and home rentals, bed and breakfasts and hotels.

Walking and bicycling

The Cowboy Trail is on the converted Cowboy Line of the Chicago & North Western railroad. Nearly 200 miles have been improved with crushed limestone, stretching from Valentine east to Norfolk. It is open for walking, bicycling or riding horses, and you don’t have to go far to see one of the most scenic parts. A quarter-mile long pedestrian bridge 148 feet above the Niobrara River is just ½-mile north of a parking area and about two miles from downtown Valentine.

Indoor activities

Downtown Valentine is home to several museums and a Main Street with a handful of shops and restaurants. Plains Trading Co. is a longtime business with a collection of Great Plains books from field guides to fiction and a large selection of gifts and regional products such as western art, Nebraska wines and local specialty vinegars and seasonings. On Main Street and next to the Valentine Visitor Center, which offers visitor’s guides and permits, is the Cherry County Historical Society Museum. One block off Main Street is the oldest standing high school building in the state. The 1897 structure is now Centennial Hall Museum, 12 rooms of eclectic historical collections.

This story was originally published June 28, 2016 at 2:56 PM with the headline "Road trip to an outdoor paradise in the Nebraska sand hills."