Restaurant Reviews

A few rough spots at Hangar One

Review: Hangar One Steakhouse

Rating: Two forks out of four

Where: 5925 W Kellogg, 316-941-4900

Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays.

Type of food: Steaks, American

Alcohol: Full bar

Reservations: Accepted weeknights but not on Fridays and Saturdays

Web site: www.hangaronesteakhouse.com

Hangar One Steakhouse is — in theory — a great concept.

It's an aviation-themed restaurant in an aviation town, and it features a classy airplane decor, airplane sound effects, the nose of a real airplane for kids to play in, and a separate "control tower lounge," accessible by elevator, that offers views of the runways at Mid-Continent.

Greg Hiser, the owner who is also a pilot, opened the restaurant in April. So far, the attractive, fun space is drawing good crowds.

Now, if only the food could meet the standards set by the ambience...

ON THE MENU: A predictable selection of steakhouse fare: Several cuts of steak, a few seafood dishes, some pasta selections as well as a few chicken dishes, burgers, salads, sandwiches and appetizers.

DON'T-MISS DISHES: Two visits to Hangar One resulted in two disparate results. The first visit was a bit of a disaster, the second a bit better.

The lowlights of visit one included a rib eye ($15.99 for 12 ounces) that was anemic to the point of chewy; a pair of overcooked, rubbery lobster tails ($28.99 for two); and an unappetizing appetizer called "steak bites," ($7.99) —a plate of bite-sized steak coated in a salty, Worcestershire sauce-laden gravy.

The food was better on visit two, which helped us appreciate some of Hangar One's other attributes — including great prices on drinks, delicious loaves of warm honey-wheat bread and a to-die-for selection of desserts, including a rich bread pudding and a creamy-smooth cheesecake, both $4.99.

The steak on visit two was more impressive. This time, we tried a 12-ounce KC-strip, which was $16.99 plus an additional $2.49 for blue cheese sauce on top. The cut was thick, and although it was cooked more medium than the medium rare we ordered, the meat was tasty and tender.

Also good was the Cajun chicken and shrimp ($12.99), featuring three plump shrimp and two smoky-tasting chicken breasts, topped with grilled peppers and onions and a spicy cream sauce.

Our wish for Hangar One's menu — that it was more diverse and that its quality was more consistent.

AMBIENCE: Very nice. The dining room is decorated with model aircraft, and several tables are made from what appear to be airplane parts. The nose of a plane juts out from the front of the building, and kids can explore its controls. The tables, chairs and booths are made of a rich, classy wood, which is also on the walls. Tables pre-set with tall wine goblets add to an upscale feel.

And the control tower lounge is worth a visit. Diners reach it by elevator from the dining room, and though it's a tad smoky, the runway views are a treat.

PRICE RANGE: Reasonable. Steaks range from $11.99 for a sirloin to $22.99 for a Texas T-bone. Seafood dishes range from $12.99 for a salmon filet to $28.99 for a pair of lobster tails. Pastas are $8.49 to $12.00, and appetizers are $5.99 to $8.99.

SERVICE: Good.

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