October 26, 2010 12:00 AM

Wales casts sightseeing spell

For 20 years, I've built my North Wales coverage around a medieval banquet at Ruthin Castle. Driving into Ruthin — and knowing its banquet was out of business — I intended to cut the town entirely from my book. I was on edge, moody, as if I were about to commit a violent act. I was mad that the town would drop the one thing that put it on my map. I was going to kill it.

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