Allspice is a victim of its own name.
You can’t blame someone for seeing the word “allspice” and thinking that it is a blend of many spices – or even all spices. It’s a natural assumption.
But allspice is just one spice, a dried berry from a broadleaf evergreen tree that grows primarily on the islands of the Caribbean Sea and Central America. It got its English name, according to a book published in 1736, because it tastes like “all the other spices.”
Usually when people today try to describe the taste, they limit the mixture of spices it resembles to cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Sometimes they also add juniper, ginger and black pepper.
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What this means to the home cook is that allspice can be counted on to add an extra kick to practically everything. Whatever tastes good with cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg tastes even better (or at least just as good) with allspice. And it is great in the sort of things you don’t necessarily associate with cloves or cinnamon too, such as soups and stews and vegetables.
The next time you make a chicken soup – or beef soup, or tomato – add a little allspice. Four or five berries will do for a gallon of soup, or one berry for every quart of liquid. Or if you are making a pot roast, stew or other braised dish, try three to five allspice berries for a lovely hint of the flavor of the islands.
And don’t forget to use it in desserts, too. Allspice is like cardamom; it is just as happy in sweet dishes as it is in savory. Cookies, cakes, oatmeal and even applesauce all perk up a bit when sprinkled with ground allspice.
I decided to use it in three distinctly different ways: as part of a flavorful rub on roast chicken, in a spicy marinade inspired (and perhaps used) by the indigenous people of the Caribbean islands and in muffins made, surprisingly, with sweet potatoes.
ROAST CHICKEN WITH CUMIN,
PAPRIKA AND ALLSPICE
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
1 (6 to 6 1/2-pound) chicken
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 large lemon, halved
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Rinse chicken; pat dry. Place chicken on rack in large roasting pan.
In a small bowl, stir together the oil, cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, allspice, paprika, salt and pepper to form a paste. Rub spice paste all over chicken.
Roast chicken 1 hour. Squeeze juice from lemon halves over chicken; place lemon halves inside main cavity. Continue to roast until chicken is cooked through and thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 180 degrees, from 30 to 60 more minutes. Transfer to platter; let stand 15 minutes.
Per serving (based on 6): 609 calories; 37 g fat; 10 g saturated fat; 206 mg cholesterol; 64 g protein; 2 g carbohydrate; no sugar; 1 g fiber; 387 mg sodium; 44 mg calcium.
Recipe from Bon Appetit
Yield: About 2 1/2 cups
6 green onions, chopped
3 tablespoons minced shallots
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup red wine
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon molasses
2 scotch bonnet chile peppers, see note
Note: Scotch bonnet peppers are closely related to habaneros, which you can substitute if you cannot find the scotch bonnet. Both are among the hottest peppers in the world, so be very careful.
In a medium bowl, combine the green onions, shallots, garlic, ginger, allspice, ground black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, brown sugar, orange juice, vinegar, wine, soy sauce, oil and molasses.
Chop the peppers and add to the mixture. If you want it a little less hot, remove the seeds before chopping. Wash your hands thoroughly, then wash the knife and the cutting board.
Mix well, cover, and allow to sit for 1 hour. Stir again before using to marinate fish or meat. Marinate fish at least 30 minutes, chicken or pork at least 1 to 2 hours, or beef (such as for London broil) at least 4 to 6 hours or overnight. Discard marinade after use.
Per (2-tablespoon) serving: 70 calories; 6 g fat; 1 g saturated fat; 0 mg cholesterol; 1 g protein; 4 g carbohydrate; 3 g sugar; no fiber; 583 mg sodium; 12 mg calcium.
Recipe adapted from allrecipes.com
Yield: 15 servings
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1/2 cup canola oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 cups peeled, shredded sweet potatoes (about 2 large)
1/2 cup raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease muffin tins to hold about 15 muffins.
Crack eggs into a small bowl and beat well. Add brown sugar, oil and vanilla, and whisk together until smooth.
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, salt and grated sweet potato. Make a well in the center and pour in the egg mixture. Stir the egg mixture, gradually incorporating it into the sweet potato mixture. Stir in the raisins and walnuts.
Spoon the batter into the muffin tins; filling them to the rim will result in large caps. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean. Use a paring knife around the edges of each muffin, if needed, to help pop them out of the tin. Best when served immediately.
Per serving: 284 calories; 14 g fat; 1 g saturated fat; 25 mg cholesterol; 4 g protein; 39 g carbohydrate; 21 g sugar; 2 g fiber; 163 mg sodium; 74 mg calcium.
Recipe from allrecipes.com