Cookbooks: three tasty summer reads

08/25/2014 1:58 PM

08/25/2014 1:58 PM

Summer is the cruelest season for cookbooks. Caught between the spring fling and the holiday onslaught, it’s easy for a good book to get ignored.

But for all the talk about how the cookbook market is shrinking – and despite the fact that sales figures tend to support that argument – I’m always surprised at just how many really good books still find their way onto my desk, no matter what time of year.

And by great books, I don’t mean big glossy coffee-table jobs, or even big books by celebrity chefs. There is still room for a wonderful little book that captures a specific subject, for a re-appreciation of a too-often-overlooked author, or for a writer with a quirky, individual voice.

Here are three books published this summer that I found especially appealing:

‘Okra’

Okra can be a challenge even for good cooks. Thank goodness there’s a great cook like Virginia Willis to help those of us who love to eat it but have been challenged by cooking it. An Atlantan and therefore someone fully familiar with the slimy pod, Willis has written a new cookbook, “Okra,” part of the University of North Carolina Press’ splendid “Savor the South” series, that finally gives the vegetable its due.

The book starts with a long essay, an “ode to okra” as Willis puts it. A breakdown of heirloom varieties, Southern history and a nice little botany lesson follow. And, yes, there are tips on how to keep okra from being overly mucilaginous. To simplify: Choose small pods. Wash and dry very thoroughly. Don’t cut it up unless it’s absolutely necessary, and then wipe your knife between cuts to reduce the slime factor. Cook it with an acid, such as tomato or wine. Above all, don’t overcook it.

The recipes run the gamut from Southern standards such as black-eyed peas and okra to inventions such as “Southern sushi” (okra and cream cheese wrapped in country ham). I particularly liked the quick-pickled okra that, Willis points out, is perfect for replacing green olives in “Southern-style martinis.”

‘Italian Kitchen’

Marcella Hazan is quite rightly regarded as the queen mother of Italian cooking in the United States. In Britain, that title probably goes to Anna Del Conte, a writer who is far too little-known here. Like Hazan, Del Conte’s food exemplifies the kind of simple, sophisticated technique that informs so much of great Italian cooking.

Her new book (at least new in the U.S.) is called “Italian Kitchen,” and it’s a compendium of recipes from four smaller books that were published in Britain back in the early ‘90s. You won’t find many elaborate constructions or flashy fusion ingredients in her recipes. What you will find are simple ingredients treated with respect.

‘My Paris Kitchen’

Bookshelves are full of romantic odes to French cooking – or at least French cooking as it once existed. But too often what’s missing is the messy texture of real life, where cuisines don’t exist in time capsules but are constantly changing, just as the contemporary cultures around them are.

You get that up-to-the-minute feeling from David Lebovitz’s “My Paris Kitchen,” which is full of recipes that feel like they came straight from a dinner party thrown by that super-chic friend who lives in a great apartment in the Third.

SPICY QUICK-PICKLED OKRA

Makes 4 pints

4 small dried chile peppers, such as chiles de arbol or bird’s eye

2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

8 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole

2 pounds medium okra, stem ends trimmed

4 cups distilled white vinegar

2 cups water

2 tablespoons pickling salt

Place 1 chile, one-half teaspoon mustard seeds, one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns and 2 garlic cloves in each of 4 sterilized pint jars. Divide the okra evenly among the jars, place the pods vertically with the stems alternating up and down.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the vinegar, water and salt to a boil. Carefully pour the boiling mixture over the okra in the jars, leaving one-fourth inch of headroom between the liquid and the top of the jar. Seal the lids, and cool to room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

Nutritional info (each of 16 (1/2 cup) servings): 25 calories , 1 g protein, 5 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 0 fat, 0 cholesterol, 1 g sugar, 110 mg sodium

Note: Adapted from Virginia Willis’ “Okra.”

SALTED BUTTER CARAMEL-CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

Serves 6

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

1/2 teaspoon corn syrup

3 tablespoons salted butter, cubed

3/4 cup heavy cream

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

4 large eggs, separated

Rounded 1/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt, preferably fleur de sel

Combine the sugar, water and corn syrup in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, and cook until the sugar begins to darken to a rich caramel color.

When the caramel is a deep amber color and starts to smoke, wait a moment for it to smell just slightly burnt, then remove it from the heat and quickly whisk in the butter, stirring until melted. Gradually whisk in the cream and stir until the little bits of caramel are completely melted. (A few can be stubborn, so be patient. You can strain the mixture if they simply refuse to budge.)

Once smooth, add the chocolate, stirring gently until it’s melted and smooth. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Once it’s no longer warm, whisk in the egg yolks.

In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff. Fold one-third of the whipped whites into the chocolate mixture, sprinkling in the flaky salt. Fold in the remaining beaten egg whites just until no streaks of white remain.

Divide the mousse into serving glasses, or transfer it to decorative serving bowl and chill for at least 8 hours. Although it might be tempting to serve this with whipped cream, I prefer it pure, straight up with just a spoon.

Nutritional info per serving: 411 calories, 7 g protein, 33 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 32 g fat, 18 g saturated fat, 180 mg cholesterol, 28 g sugar, 218 mg sodium

Note: Adapted from David Lebovitz’s “My Paris Kitchen.” This recipe calls for raw egg. Although many recipes call for raw eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends that diners – especially children, seniors, pregnant women and those with compromised immune systems – avoid eating them.

BAKED ZUCCHINI WITH MINT

AND GARLIC STUFFING

Serves 4

1 pound zucchini

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 cup dried breadcrumbs

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise. Make some diagonal incisions on the cut side. Sprinkle the cut side lightly with salt and place the zucchini halves on a wooden board, cut-side down. This will allow some of the liquid to drain away.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the chopped parsley and mint in a bowl and add the garlic and breadcrumbs. Add half the oil gradually, while beating with a fork. Season with a good grinding of pepper and with very little salt.

Oil a shallow baking or lasagna dish large enough to hold all the zucchini halves in a single layer.

Wipe the zucchini halves with paper towels and lay them in the dish, cut-side up. Spoon a little of the herb mixture over each half. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over the halves and cover the dish with foil. Bake for 30 minutes.

Remove the foil and continue baking until the zucchini is tender and the top is crisp, 10 to 20 minutes longer.

Drizzle with the remaining olive oil while the zucchini is still hot. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Each serving: 229 calories, 3 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 21 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 cholesterol, 3 g sugar, 61 mg sodium

Note: Adapted from Anna Del Conte’s “Italian Kitchen.”

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