As my 6-year-old review assistant said as he approached the restaurant, “If it’s called Dragon City, it HAS to be good.”
Dragon City, the Chinese restaurant that opened at 3008 W. Central in April, is pretty good, it turns out. It’s at least good enough to potentially break the streak of restaurants opening then quickly closing in the oft-vacated spot. (Think Lexi’s Restaurant, Maharaja, New York Cafe, etc.)
Owned by Zhiyong Liu, brother of Great Wall founder Benny Liu, the restaurant serves many Great Wall-esque Chinese dishes freshly made and served hot for dine-in and carryout. The restaurant also delivers within a five mile radius (which includes my house!) a rare treat in a town that really only delivers pizza. The delivery charge is only $1 a trip.
The moo shu dish ($7.35 for pork) also was outstanding — and outstandingly hot. It came with four thin Chinese-style pancakes that resemble tortillas in texture. The meat mixture, intended to be rolled up inside, was made of a well-balanced sweet combination of chopped pork, egg, bamboo shoots and mushrooms. A sweet and thick hoisin sauce served on the side deliciously pasted the Chinese “burritos” together.
The dragon-loving boy in our party ordered a kid staple — sweet and sour chicken — and was thrilled with his giant plate of bite-sized fried chicken pieces, which he gleefully dipped into a hot pink bowl of sweet and sour sauce served on the side. His meal, which also included pork fried rice, was $6.45. Another young diner at our table liked her shrimp lo mein, a generous serving of long soft noodles oiled up and served with sauteed shrimp and veggies for $5 for a pint, $7.70 for a quart. (A pint was plenty.)
An order of General Tso’s chicken ($8.95) featured giant bits of crispy fried chicken coated in a sweet bright orange sauce and a side of steamed broccoli. The serving was generous, and the flavor was good. We were less impressed with the chicken with cashew nuts ($4.95 for a pint), which was made with tiny bites of very dark meat chicken and a bland brown sauce. But it was one of the few weak spots in the meal, which also included jumbo-sized hot and crispy crab Rangoon and above-average pork-filled egg rolls.