Review: Five Guys Burgers and Fries
Rating: Three forks out of four
Where: 2616 N. Maize Road, Suite 100, 316-722-5489
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Type of food: Burgers, fries, hot dogs
Web site: www.fiveguys.com
To hear fans of Five Guys Burgers and Fries tell it, the restaurant's burgers offer a life-changing beef experience.
They're a persuasive group. Five Guys at 2616 N. Maize Road is steadily packed with customers, eager to find out what the burger buzz is all about.
Five Guys Burgers and Fries is a national chain that also has restaurants in the Kansas City area. It opened about a month ago in a new strip center across from NewMarket Square.
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ON THE MENU: The menu is brief and straightforward — burgers, fries and hot dogs. Customers can choose from a variety of toppings, including bacon, relish, grilled mushrooms and jalapenos.
DON'T-MISS DISHES: The burgers at Five Guys, we can attest, are indeed good. Are they life-changing and transcendental? That depends on how you like your burger.
The regular-sized burger ($4.39, $4.99 with cheese) is double-thick and juicy. Served on a sesame-seed bun, the beef tasted fresh but slightly under-seasoned. Even those in our party who prefer the smashed-flat approaches of Freddy's Frozen Custard and Smashburger found it hard to stop eating the super-thick burger. We tried it with and without cheese, with and without bacon and with and without toppings of the vegetable variety. All were good.
The fries also are a draw at Five Guys. They're the type that are fresh cut with a little bit of the potato skin left intact, and they're fried to a golden-brown, greasy perfection. Though they could have been crisper, the fries were substantial and addictive.
One minor complaint — the person who took our order advised us to get one large serving of fries ($4.19) to share between three people rather than three regular-sized orders ($2.49). The serving was plenty for three, she said, and if we disagreed, we could get more at no extra charge.
Turns out we did disagree but didn't want to fight the crowd to get more. Plus, as good as they tasted, the grease that visibly soaked through the bag the fries came in was enough to convince us that it'd be in our best interest to stop.
The hot dog we ordered also was tasty. Five Guys splits it lengthwise and grills it before putting it on a bun, and ours was delicious topped with cheese, bacon, onions, relish, green bell peppers and mustard. We ordered the bacon cheese dog, which is $3.99. A regular kosher-style dog is $2.99.
AMBIENCE: Five Guys features high ceilings, cement floors and red and white tile work on the walls. The smallish dining room is furnished with wooden tables and chairs, and the place is flooded with natural light.
The ambience is also decidedly unfussy, emphasized by the fact that the food is all served in brown paper bags.
PRICE RANGE: Reasonable. Burgers (except the bacon cheeseburger) are all under $5.
SERVICE: Good. Five Guys has a lot of people working behind the counter — we counted 10 at our lunchtime visit. The two conversational women at the cash registers made suggestions, took orders and shouted instructions to the bustling grill crew, who prepared the orders quickly and accurately.