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Dude food: Grilling king Steven Raichlen talks man-made meals

  • Minneapolis Star Tribune
  • Published Wednesday, July 16, 2014, at 6:33 a.m.


Fire-Eater Chicken Wings

Pimenton (Spanish smoked paprika) can be found at most supermarkets or online at tienda.com. For a smokier flavor, grill the wings indirectly over charcoal that has 1 1/2 cups of soaked drained wood chips on top.

Yield: 6 servings as an appetizer

For the chicken wings and spice mixture:

3 to 3 1/2 pounds chicken wings

1 tablespoon pimenton or sweet paprika

1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon onion or garlic powder

1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon celery seed, optional

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil, plus extra for oiling the wire rack

For the sauce:

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

3 to 6 jalapeno peppers (preferably red) or other hot peppers (depends on your tolerance for heat), thinly sliced

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves

1/2 cup Louisiana-style hot sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot or Tabasco, to taste

1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke, optional

Cut each chicken wing through the joints into two sections, the drumette (the part that looks like a little drumstick) and the flat, discarding the wing tips (or save them for stock). Place wings in a large mixing bowl.

Combine pimenton, salt, black pepper, onion or garlic powder, cayenne and celery seed in a small bowl, and mix them with your fingers. Sprinkle spice mixture over the chicken wings and toss to mix. Add olive oil and toss to mix.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place a wire rack over an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Oil the rack with a folded paper towel dipped in vegetable oil.

Arrange chicken wings on the wire rack. Bake until browned and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes, turning them once or twice with tongs. To check for doneness, make a slit in the thickest part of the largest drumette; there should be no traces of pink.

Prepare sauce: Melt butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When butter is hot, bubbles will dance when you dip a slice of jalapeno in it. Add jalapenos and cilantro to butter and cook until fragrant, about two minutes. Stir in hot sauce and let mixture come to a boil. Add a few drops of liquid smoke, if desired.

Transfer baked chicken wings to a large shallow serving bowl. Pour sauce over them and toss to mix.

From “Man Made Meals” by Steven Raichlen (Workman, 2014)

Cooking may not be a gender-specific activity, but there are some characteristics that follow stereotypes more often than not (read on before you start to object).

At least that’s what Steven Raichlen says. He’s the guy who has brought us more grilling books than one would think possible (he’s written 30 books, including “Planet Barbecue!” and “Barbecue! Bible”). Now Raichlen is directing his considerable culinary knowledge to another subject at which he’s equally skilled: teaching men to cook in “Man Made Meals: The Essential Cookbook for Guys.”

As Raichlen takes the reader through a variety of cooking methods in 300 recipes, he intersperses technique and step-by-step photos (how to carve a turkey, how to eat lobster) with an engaging Q&A involving food dudes, from Spanish chef Jose Andres to Michael Pollan, Thomas Keller, Stanley Tucci, Andrew Zimmern and even a faux interview with Thomas Jefferson (via an academic). The interviews alone are worth the price of the book as each cook delves deep into what motivates his cooking.

We thought Raichlen should answer some of those same questions himself.

Q: What are the three dishes every guy should know how to cook?

A: Every guy should know how to cook a steak. Note I said cook a steak, not grill a steak. Every guy should know how to make an omelet, because that’s your solo meal and you’ll never go hungry if you can make an omelet. Every guy should know how to cook a lobster, because if you’re ever in a party in mixed company and there’s a lobster around, it’s certain that the guy will be asked to cook it.

Q: What three techniques should every guy know?

A: A guy should know how to handle a knife, good knifemanship. That means how to chop, how to slice, how to dice, how to sharpen a knife without taking your finger off. Every guy should know how to light and control a grill. Sorry, I’ve got to go back to my roots in that. Every guy should know how to shuck an oyster because, again, if in mixed company, if someone comes up with a bushel of oysters, you’re going to be the one who shucks it.

Q: What three ingredients do you need as a cook (let’s skip the salt and pepper)?

A: First of all, extra-virgin olive oil. You use it as a cooking fat, you use it as a basting mixture, you use it as a sauce, condiment or seasoning. The second is fresh lemon, ideally Meyer lemon. Again, because the zest provides the flavor, the juice provides a second flavor, and there isn’t any food in the world that can’t be brightened by a squeeze of lemon juice. And if you oversalt something, lemon juice will often bring it back. The third would be some kind of chile or hot sauce. I love the way hot sauce electrifies food. With those three ingredients, you can tackle just about anything.

Q: Do you think men and women cook differently?

A: I do. I think there are several differences. One is that men tend to like bigger flavors than women, more assertive flavors. This can lead to many calamities. There’s something I call the “Guy Syndrome.” It says that if some of something is good, more of it is automatically better, as in 1 tablespoon of Tabasco sauce is great, so add a half a bottle. Or 1 cup of wood chips on your smoker is great every hour, so let’s add 8 cups at once. And that’s not good.

I think when women cook, they think about a meal. When men cook, they think about a dish. What I’m trying to do in “Man Made Meals” is to train men to think about the whole meal. Elaborating on that, when women cook, it’s often out of necessity. I think of my wife and daughter putting a meal on the table five nights a week. When men cook, it’s often a special occasion. Obviously, these are stereotypes. But I think they are kind of true.

Guys also have a unique relationship with simplicity and complexity. In general, we want our food very simple – steaks, fried eggs, sandwiches – until we want it complicated. Then we want chili or barbecue sauce, where we use every ingredient in the spice rack.

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