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We all scream for homemade ice cream

  • The Wichita Eagle
  • Published Saturday, May 17, 2014, at 2:52 p.m.
  • Updated Sunday, May 18, 2014, at 6:29 a.m.

Photos

Fresh Churned Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato

Makes about 1 quart. Recipe can be easily doubled or tripled for a larger quantity.

2 whole eggs

2 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

2/3 cup sugar

Pinch salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup chocolate-hazelnut spread (Nutella is preferred)

Beat eggs in an electric mixer until eggs are thick and pale yellow.

Combine milk, cream, sugar and salt in a saucepan over medium heat until scalded. Whisk about half the hot mixture into the beaten eggs, then pour the egg mixture back into the pan. Continue to cook and stir mixture constantly until it is very hot and coats the back of a wooden spoon (160 degrees). Be sure to stir constantly to keep mixture from scorching.

Stir in vanilla and chocolate-hazelnut spread; whisk until melted and incorporated into the mixture.

Place a strainer over a medium bowl and pour the warm custard mixture through the strainer.

Chill mixture completely, then pour into an ice cream maker and follow manufacturer’s instructions to freeze.

Copyright “Cooking with Bonnie: Farm to France 2011”

Homemade Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts. Recipe is easily doubled or tripled for a larger batch.

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 cup heavy cream

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste

1 1/2 cups whole milk

Whisk all ingredients in a large bowl until blended. Cover and chill 30 minutes.

Pour milk mixture into freezer container of an electric ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions.

If desired, remove dasher from canister and place ice cream in the freezer for 15 minutes to harden a bit more. For longer storage, transfer to an airtight container and freeze until totally firm – one to two hours.

Peach Ice Cream

Makes 1/2 gallon

2 pounds fresh peaches, peeled and pitted

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup half-and-half

1 cup cream

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

About 1 cup whole milk as needed

1 cup finely chopped fresh peaches, optional (if you want peach pieces in ice cream)

Puree the 2 pounds of peaches with the sugar, lemon juice and half-and-half in batches in a blender or food processor.

Pour into 1/2-gallon ice cream freezer container. Add cream, sweetened condensed milk, vanilla and almond extracts and salt. Pour in enough whole milk to fill the container to the fill line, about 1 cup. Stir to combine thoroughly.

Follow the ice cream manufacturer’s instructions to freeze the ice cream. When ice cream is frozen but not quite finished, stir in finely chopped peaches. When frozen, transfer to a container and place in freezer for an hour or two before serving.

Ice cream is always good in the summer.

But homemade ice cream? That’s memorable.

Anyone can buy a carton of ice cream, and Wichita has plenty of good places to do so. But only those with a sense of culinary adventure and a little time on their hands can make their own, and those who excel at it say it’s not as hard as it sounds.

“With homemade ice cream, it’s just the fun of making it that adds the extra special part to it,” said Curtis Coln, whose homemade ice cream creations are now being sold in his wife, Tracy’s, Cow and Sow Deli at 612 E. Douglas.

Coln said his parents would sometimes make ice cream as he was growing up, and some of his best summertime memories involve it. Back then, hand cranking was about the only option, so it was a big undertaking.

As someone addicted to culinary experimentation, Coln spends a lot of time toying around with recipes and methods for barbecuing and smoking meat. In recent years, he’s also become a homemade ice cream expert and couldn’t wait to try out his recipes in his wife’s new business.

Last month, the deli debuted Coln’s first effort: a homemade blueberry cheesecake ice cream. It sold out within hours.

Coln said the recipe he uses most often is “no churn,” which means no special ice cream maker is required. Instead, he mixes the ingredients with a KitchenAid mixer using the whisk attachment for about 15 minutes, until the texture is airy like meringue.

He’s reluctant to share his special recipe but says his ice cream starts with a base made of 2 cups of whipping cream, a can of sweetened condensed milk and 2 teaspoons of vanilla. He adds cream cheese and fruit, whips it and freezes the ice cream for several days until it’s nice and hard.

His ice cream will be available at Cow and Sow throughout the summer.

Another local ice cream-making expert is Bonnie Aeschliman, owner of Cooking at Bonnie’s Place at 9747 E. 21st St. North.

She always tries to make ice cream for special family gatherings and says she likes it because it just tastes better than ice cream bought at the store.

“I think it does. It has a different texture,” she said. “There’s something about it that it’s just a special treat. If you ask somebody if they want a scoop of commercial or homemade ice cream, they would opt for homemade every time.”

Aeschliman said she retired her hand cranker years ago, and these days her preferred ice cream-making device is an electric Cuisinart model that requires no ice or salt. It has a bucket that must be placed in the freezer for several hours before using. She dumps in her ice cream mixture, and the ice cream is ready to go in about 20 minutes.

A basic model, she said, can be had for about $59.

The electric ice cream makers produce smaller quantities – no more than 2 quarts at a time – so people making ice cream for large summer gatherings might want to choose the electric churning models that require ice and rock salt, Aeschliman said. Those start at around $25 and can make 4 quarts or more.

Aeschliman said her favorite flavors of ice cream are old-fashioned vanilla bean and peach – but only with in-season peaches that are ripe and juicy.

After traveling to Italy, she became particularly interested in making gelato.

“It’s different from ice cream,” she said. “It doesn’t have as much cream in it. It’s more condensed. As it chums, it doesn’t whip and get more air. It has a really pronounced flavor.”

Aeschliman agreed to share a couple of her favorite homemade ice cream recipes.

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