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A daughter dishes on Diego and Frida

  • Special To The Washington Post
  • Published Wednesday, April 30, 2014, at 12 a.m.


Cold Chilies With Vegetable Stuffing

4 to 8 servings

These peppers were part of a meatless Lenten meal prepared for artist Frida Kahlo when she visited a home in Teotihuacan, near Mexico City.

The original recipe doesn’t suggest peeling the skins from the roasted, cooled peppers, but we think it makes for a nicer presentation. If you opt to peel, do so just before stuffing, so as not to dry out the peppers’ flesh.

MAKE AHEAD: The poblanos can be roasted, cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container a day in advance. The cauliflower, carrots and peas can be cooked, cooled and refrigerated 2 or 3 days in advance.

8 medium, fresh poblano chili peppers, roasted, seeded and deveined (see NOTE)

1 medium onion, sliced

3 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh marjoram leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons (packed) torn cilantro leaves

1 bay leaf

1/2 cup cooked chopped cauliflower

1/2 cup cooked, chopped carrots

1/2 cup cooked peas

Flesh of 2 ripe avocados, cut into cubes

1 scallion, trimmed and finely chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

4 ounces añejo cheese, crumbled (may substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese), for garnish

Place the roasted poblanos in a large pot; cover with water. Add the onion, 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, the thyme, oregano, marjoram, cilantro and bay leaf; cook (uncovered) over medium heat until the peppers are tender, about 40 minutes, adjusting the heat to keep the liquid at a low boil. Drain and cool the peppers; discard the onion, herbs and cooking liquid.

Combine the cauliflower, carrots, peas, avocados and scallion in a mixing bowl. Add the oil and the remaining 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons of vinegar, stirring gently to coat. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Divide the mixture into the appropriate number of equal portions (for each pepper).

Stuff each poblano with the vegetable mixture, arranging the filled peppers on a platter as you work. Drizzle cream over the top of each one, then sprinkle with the cheese. Serve at room temperature.

NOTE: Roast the poblanos on an aluminum-foil-lined baking sheet at 400 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes or until the skins have blistered, turning them over halfway through. Let them cool, then cut off and discard the tops. Keep the poblanos intact (in order to stuff them) as you scrape out the seeds and ribs.

Nutrition Per serving (based on 8): 320 calories, 4 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 30 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 70 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar

Adapted from “Frida’s Fiestas: Recipes and Reminiscences of Life With Frida Kahlo,” by Guadalupe Rivera and Marie-Pierre Colle (Clarkson Potter, 1994).

When she was a teenager in the 1940s, Guadalupe Rivera Marin went to live with her father and stepmother in Coyoacán, in Mexico City, in a house that would become known for its vivid blue color, for its famous occupants and for the parties they would throw.

Her father, of course, was the muralist Diego Rivera, one of the most important Mexican artists of all time, and his wife was painter Frida Kahlo, who achieved worldwide fame mostly after her premature death at age 47. As Marin points out, Kahlo may have orchestrated the meals and gatherings with artistic brilliance, but she didn’t cook much (nor did she like cooking).

Marin, now 90, has had a long career of her own in public service (she was a senator and congresswoman in Mexico), education and literature. She came to Washington recently to speak at an event at the Mexican Cultural Institute, where I served some of her father’s favorite foods from her 1994 cookbook, “Frida’s Fiestas: Recipes and Reminiscences of Life With Frida Kahlo.”

After Marin spoke, I interviewed her. Edited excerpts of our conversation follow:

Q Now, who cooked? I read in your book that your mom was an extraordinary cook who became a very good friend of Frida’s and taught her how to cook.

A Yes. Very good friends. The one who cooked was my mother, Lupe Marin. Aside from her beauty and talent, she was an excellent cook. She used the recipes of my grandmother, Isabel Preciado de Marin. Those recipes are the ones that are in my cookbook: “Las Fiestas de Frida y Diego” in Spanish. My mom’s family came from Zapotlan, Jalisco. My mom admired Diego’s work; she had heard he was back in Mexico City and, without knowing him, she decided she was going to marry him. She went to Mexico City, managed to meet him, and they got married.

Frida had a very advanced education for that era, she was very modern, but she didn’t cook and didn’t like to cook. After my dad and Frida got married, we all lived in a building together. Frida was very organized and a wonderful host: She loved setting up the house and adorning and decorating everything. She was very good at deciding menus.

Q: How did your dad influence your view on food?

A: My dad loved all the strange foods. There was always a sense of discovery of the real way of cooking from the Mexican pueblo. He liked trying everything that was local and characteristic of the different regions. We traveled with him all over, to small towns, local markets, and learned the variety of foods. We rarely went to restaurants. If we ate out, it was at the markets or the local stands.

Q: How much did your father like eating?

A: He walked in the house at the Mexican lunchtime and screamed, “I am here!” The dining room was full of light, full of flowers. He went directly there. Frida tended to him very well. After the meal there were long sobre mesas, coffee and sweets. Many guests. They talked about what was going on in Mexico and all over the world. It was all that conversation stewing with my dad that made me want to serve my country and have a sense of duty.

Q: Did you have the chance to cook for him?

A: I did, many times. After I got married, he would come to lunch with us. We lived close. I used to make many of the meals that I grew up eating. It was my mother, Lupe’s, recipes. The same ones she learned from my grandmother. The ones Lupe taught Frida how to make.

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