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Cheezies pizza surprisingly good for the cheap price

  • The Wichita Eagle
  • Published Thursday, April 17, 2014, at 10:54 a.m.

Photos

If You Go

Cheezies Pizza

Two and a half stars out of four

Where: 3804 W. Maple, 316-945-2439, and 601 E. First St., 316-267-2439

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and 3-9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays; and noon-9 p.m. Sundays.

Type of food: To-go pizza, calzones, sandwiches, wings

Alcohol: No

Web site: www.cheeziespizza.com

For years, I drove past the Cheezies Pizza at 3804 W. Maple. The giant “$4.99 pizza” sign spray-painted in the window told me all I needed to know about this place. I envisioned the worst possible convenience store pizza: freezer-burn-flavored crust, gloppy cheese and dried-up pepperoni.

But when the second location of the to-go pizza chain opened downtown in January, a co-worker responded with excited approval. Cheezies Pizza is surprisingly good for the price, he said. The Maple location I had written off had become his go-to spot for inexpensive movie-night pizza.

That same night, I picked up two of Cheezies $4.99 large pizzas – one cheese and one pepperoni. And my co-worker was right. Cheezies’ super-cheap pizza was not what I feared and in fact had flavorful, bready crust, delicious sauce and lots of cheese. A recent tour through the rest of the inexpensive menu yielded similar results. Cheezies isn’t going to win any culinary awards, for sure, but its menu offerings are more than decent, especially for the price.

The franchisee of both Cheezies is Mike Ryno, who also owns Wichita’s Tracy’s Automotive stores.

ON THE MENU The surprisingly large menu includes the two $4.99 large pizzas, and cheese and pepperoni are the only two options at that price. Other one-topping large pizzas can be had for $5.99, and large specialty pizzas are $8.99. The menu also has several hot sub sandwiches, three types of calzones and a Stromboli. Appetizer options include chicken wings, bone in or bone out, plus three varieties of breadsticks. For dessert, Cheezies offers cinnamon breadsticks or a chocolate chip cookie the size of a pizza.

DON’T-MISS DISHES My favorite thing about Cheezies is that $4.99 pepperoni pizza, which would be a good choice for anyone feeding a large group of people. It tastes good, the toppings are generous, and the nongreasy crust compares favorably to Pizza Hut’s hand-tossed one.

I also was pleasantly surprised by the Italian sub sandwich, served on a nice crusty bread and stuffed with pepperoni and chunks of Italian sausage that were held together with melted Mozzarella cheese and “Alpine dressing,” which seems to be a tangy, creamy Italian dressing. The sandwich, served with a bag of chips and a pickle spear, wasn’t huge, but it would satisfy an average appetite and was worth $5.99. Among the other sandwich options are a club, a ham and cheese, a veggie sub and a chicken sub.

The $8.99 specialty pizza menu includes deluxe, multimeat, veggie, Canadian bacon and pineapple, taco style and double pepperoni. There’s also chicken bacon ranch, which is what we tried but did not love. It was topped with chicken chunks, bacon, onions and green peppers, but it had a bit of an off-putting processed garlic aroma, and the flavor matched. Next time, we’ll stick with the less complicated basics.

The menu lists only one Stromboli variety, and it’s also $8.99. It was giant and pretty, featuring dough stuffed with cheese, Canadian bacon, bacon, green peppers, onions and ranch dressing. It was a lot of food, and the dough had a nice flavor. The long, rectangular Stromboli was sliced down the center lengthwise and then several times crosswise to create many sharable pieces.

We also opted for an order of Apline sticks, which were $2.99 for a small round of dough topped with the creamy Italian Alpine dressing plus lots of Mozzarella and Parmesan cheese, then baked, sliced into sticks and served with a side of marinara. They were delicious, decadent and gone quickly. Customers also can get cheesy breadsticks topped with garlic butter or sliced jalapenos.

For dessert, we ordered a “cookie wedge,” which is one-quarter of the restaurant’s pizza-sized cookie but costs $2.75 instead of $9.99. It was wrapped in plastic wrap, and, as the cashier said with a proud smile, “still warm.” It was so warm that it was still dough and stayed that way for some time. We waited until it cooled completely to unwrap it. By then, it had hardened enough that it could be sliced. The cookie was rich and greasy and tasted of pre-packaged cookie dough, but that’s just how the kids in my house like it.

AMBIENCE Both Cheezies are designed for carry-out customers and have little more than to-go counters where customers can place their orders and then pick up their food. The Maple Cheezies is in a small, metal building. The downtown one is attached to the Tracy’s at 525 E. First St. North.

PRICE RANGE Excessively inexpensive. The feast I ordered included two large pizzas, a Stromboli, a small order of wings, a small order of breadsticks, a sandwich that was served with chips and a pickle and a large wedge of a chocolate chip cookie and was less than $40.

SERVICE My orders all have been accurate and ready to go when I arrived.

Ratings reflect the critic’s judgment of the food, service and atmosphere in relation to the price. If you would like to nominate a restaurant to be reviewed, call 316-268-6327.

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