A generation or so ago, women were clamoring to get out of their home kitchens. Now, men are working to get in. And not just any guys, mind you, but some of the top male chefs, restaurateurs and TV cooking stars — men who’ve made their money and reputations toiling at big, bad restaurant stoves.
Tyler Florence, the Food Network veteran and restaurateur based in Mill Valley, Calif., led the trend with the release in 2010 of “Tyler Florence Family Meal: Bringing People Together Never Tasted Better.” Five of his chef peers have followed suit in recent months with their own takes on at-home cooking, from a down-home celebration of family by Louisiana’s John Besh to the techno-wizardry of England’s Heston Blumenthal to television superstar Mario Batali dishing up rustic Italian.
Here’s a summary of some of these newer books to judge what chefs can teach us about home cooking.
Todd English (with Amanda Haas)
“Cooking in Everyday English: The ABCs of Great Flavor at Home” (Exmoor House, $29.95)
• Promise: “With my help, you will become fearless in the kitchen.”
• Fine print: Beginners may be a bit scared of “Todd’s pantry” list: 26 dry spices, 44 dry goods (including 7 vinegars, 3 salts, 3 chocolates and 1 cocoa powder); 6 refrigerated items; 5 frozen items.
• Take-away points: Knowing how to salt correctly really matters; use A.C.G. — anchovies, capers, garlic — to boost flavors; hone flavor combinations to make dishes shine.
• Recipes: 150 recipes. Beautiful full-color photos of finished dishes plus shots of the key flavor ingredients for each dish. Short list of ingredients; simple instructions.
• Try it: Zucchini pancakes
Mario Batali
“Molto Batali: Simple Family Meals From My Home to Yours” (Ecco, $29.99)
• Promise: “We surrender to nature and love the seasons’ changes, much more than we attempt to conquer and challenge them.”
• Fine print: Batali follows the calendar cooking Italian. Good in-depth glossary of ingredients but words like “trente,” “rubellite,” “amido” and “Carducci” crop up often without translation. Authentic? Si. Understandable to the average cook? Non sempre (not always).
• Take-away points: Eat less protein, more vegetables and grains. While each chapter offers enough for a celebratory blowout meal for up to 12 people, you can pare down the menu. Recipes can be halved or quartered. Flexibility counts in the kitchen.
• Recipes: 120 recipes. Each chapter features a main dish, pastas, veggies and desserts. Ingredients and directions accessible to most; vivid photography of the finished dishes in a home-style setting.
• Try it: Neapolitan-style broccoli
Jean-Georges Vongerichten (with Genevieve Ko)
“Home Cooking With Jean-Georges: My Favorite Simple Recipes” (Clarkson Potter, $40)
• Promise: “Relaxing with my family is just about the best thing that’s happened to my cooking in a long time. I hope you’ll feel the same way cooking from this book.”
• Fine print: The dishes Vongerichten cooks at his country home are “decidedly simple and unfussy.” Still, dinner gets its due with “large platters of foods meant to be shared.” Doable recipes but remember, quality is key to simplicity.
• Take-away points: Home-cooked meals require the same “intricate balance of flavors and textures” as restaurant meals. A number of recipes have intriguing Asian touches.
• Recipes: 100 recipes, clearly written, with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients.
• Try it: Crab toasts with Sriracha mayonnaise
John Besh
“My Family Table: A Passionate Plea for Home Cooking” (Andrews McMeel, $35)
• Promise: Spending time away from home on various projects made Besh realize that he should “focus instead on spreading the message of cooking and eating with family and friends.”
• Fine print: Dishes are comforting, classic — all designed to get you into the kitchen. Opening chapter features dishes you can make with whatever proteins or veggies you have on hand. Smart idea. Recipes larded with charming family photographs and anecdotes.
• Take-away points: Cook with the best ingredients. Plan ahead; stock your kitchen so you’re ready for almost anything. Flavor needn’t be sacrificed for simplicity.
• Recipes: 140 recipes grouped into various scenarios, from “Sunday Supper” to a “Jazz Brunch” to quick suppers for “School Nights.” Southern dishes are sprinkled throughout.
• Try it: Curried anything
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