Posted on Wed, Jul. 15, 2009

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Summer spuds: Time to shake up potato salad

By Nancy Stohs

Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

Is it possible to live on potato salad alone? I think I could do it. Really. I don't know about you, but it's the first dish I reach for on every picnic buffet. I save room for seconds. A good potato salad is better than all the burgers or perfectly grilled brats, chicken or shish kebab in the world.

Or so I think.

The origin of potato salad is somewhat murky, but authorities agree that the versions we know became popular in America in the second half of the 19th century.

Cold salads seem to have evolved from British and French recipes, while hot potato salads — well, we have our German forebears to thank, of course.

Hot or cold, for potato salad inspiration, look no further than a slim new volume, "Potato Salad, 65 Recipes from Classic to Cool" by Debbie Moose (Wiley, $16.95).

Moose writes niche books about foods people love — deviled eggs, wings, tailgate food. And now, this picnic favorite.

"Potatoes are kind of a blank slate. You can put any kind of flavors in there and change it up," she said. "Textural variations are fun to play with, too."

A dish of many colors

Moose's potato salad preparations include Mexican, Greek and Tuscan renditions, salads dressed with pesto and tahini, a Caesar version, one with beets, Wasabi Spuds, a curry potato salad and more.

Her Blue Moon Potato Salad features blue potatoes and blue cheese, plus walnuts for crunch. "That color (of the blue potatoes) gets people's attention."

So do salads made with sweet potatoes.

"I love sweet potato salads," Moose said. "You can bring in flavors that play up or down the sweetness."

As for regular potatoes, any variety can be used in a salad, but Moose has her favorites: new potatoes, small red potatoes and Yukon Golds. She leaves the peel on the waxier redskinned potatoes but peels the Yukon Golds, choosing them whenever she wants potatoes diced into smaller pieces.

For potatoes that absorb less water and hold their shape better, boil them whole, with the peels on. But you also can roast or grill them. In any event, don't overcook.

Defining the classic

Which of the 65 preparations comes closest to the quintessential American potato salad?

"When most people think of potato salad they think of new potatoes," Moose said, adding that new potatoes are not a separate variety — just a young version of regular potatoes.

And the classic salad has a mayonnaise-based dressing "and probably some celery and onion." And pickle relish.

But she found in her research and taste tests that egg was a controversial addition: "Some people wouldn't touch it."

The recipe in her book called, appropriately, Classic Potato Salad, has all these items.

"It's comfort food," Moose said of spud salads in general, "which is something we all need right now."

Get out of your potato salad rut this holiday with a variation on the popular picnic food. Included here are recipes from "Potato Salad" by Debbie Moose and my own personal recipe.

POTATO, CORN AND CHERRY TOMATO SALAD WITH BASIL DRESSING

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ cup olive oil

1 cup packed fresh basil leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2½ pounds red potatoes

½ lb. cherry tomatoes, halved

6 ears fresh corn, cooked, kernels removed

Put vinegar, oil, basil, salt and pepper in blender or food processor. Process until emulsified.

Place potatoes in large pot, add enough water to cover and bring to boil. Cook until potatoes are pierced easily with tip of a sharp knife, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and let cool until you can handle them but they are still warm. Cut into quaters but do not peel. Put potatoes, cherry tomatoes and corn kernels in large bowl. Pour in the basil cressing and toss gently to combine. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

CURRY POTATO SALAD

2 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes

2 cups plain yogurt

3 cloves garlic, presed

3 tablespoons Major Grey chutney

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon curry powder

1 cup cooked green peas

1 cup chopped onion

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

Place potatoes in large pot, add enough water to cover them, cover the pot with a lid and bring to a boil. Cook until potatoes are pierced easily with the tip of a sharp knife, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and let cool until you can handle them but they are still warm.

Peel and cut into approximately 1-inch pieces. In large bowl, stir together the yogurt, garlic, chutney, salt, curry powder, peas, onions and, if using, cayenne. Stir in potatoes. Cover and refrigerate several hours or overnight. Makes 6 servings.

EGG-LOVER'S POTATO SALAD WITH BALSAMIC AND CELERY SEED

2½ lbs. red potatoes

¾ cup mayonnaise

6 or 7 eggs, hard-cooked (divided)

½ tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 to 3 teaspoons good-quality balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ to ½ medium red onion, thinly sliced or slivered

Celery seed and dried basil

Cook unpeeled potatoes in boiling water just until tender, about 15 minutes. Do not overcook.

Drain well and set aside to cool. When lukewarm, cover and refrigerate until ready to make salad.

To make salad: Cut up cooled potatoes into bite-size chunks into large bowl.

Place mayonnaise in medium bowl. Remove yolks from 2 or 3 eggs; mash well with fork or potato masher. Add to mayonnaise along with the mustard, balsamic vinegar and some salt and pepper. Mix well and taste, then adjust seasonings accordingly.

Set 1 whole hard cooked egg aside. Chop remaining eggs and egg whites and add to potatoes along with onion and a sprinkling of salt. Sprinkle generously with celery seed and then a bit of basil, add mayonnaise mixture and mix gently but thoroughly. Sprinkle on more celery seed and basil, then slice reserved egg and arrange slices on top. Makes about 6 servings.

BACON AVOCADO POTATO SALAD

6 medium boiling potatoes

2 avocados, peeled and cubed

8 slices bacon

½ cup chopped onions

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

½ cup white wine

¼ cup cider vinegar

Salt and black pepper

Paprika

¼ teaspoon mustard powder

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

Boil potatoes in their skins. While potatoes boil, cube avocados and toss with lime juice. Chop bacon into 1-inch pieces and fry until crisp in a large skillet. Remove bacon to paper towels to drain.

In bacon fat, saute onions until golden. Remove pan from heat and stir in wine, vinegar, mustard, and salt, pepper and paprika to taste.

When potatoes are tender, drain peel and dice. While still warm, pour dressing over potatoes and toss. Allow to cool to room temperatures. Fold in avocado, bacon, parsely and cilantro. Serve at room temperature or chill one hour or longer. Makes 8 servings.